The whole trip was truly exceptional. Everyday was a new adventure and not once was I disappointed! My most treasured tour moment was singing in St. Paul's Cathedral and hearing our voices echo while we sang. An awesome experience!

-Lee Larkin

more from our singers and groupies...

I have to begin at St Paul’s: when we stood under the dome to sing, we looked out over a sea of faces; I wondered if they had any idea what they were about to hear. I remembered Douglas saying that “many” had wanted to sing here, but we had been selected. During that concert, each time Douglas gave us a cut-off I felt as though our sound was flowing over everyone, bathing us in a fine mist of glorious tones, like the finest of snow crystals – it was AWESOME!

So many memories: crashing a town garden tour in the Cotswolds, hearing the Berkeley Carroll School Upper School Choir (NYC) in Oxford, a warm cookie at Ben’s afterwards, a walking adventure through the streets of Canterbury; lunch, an unexpected treat at the Food Hall, and dinner that was literally made-to-order! London: watching people, seeing Wicked, an Italian culinary surprise, singing in St. Paul’s and then climbing to the outside of the dome (391 steps up and down), and sharing food and drinks with new friends who will never be forgotten.

Who will ever forget our faithful guide, Susie Howe? “RICHARD!”

How fitting that we should conclude our incredible musical journey together at St. James. I recall they described communion as “peeling an onion from the inside-out…” I was not sure about this, but it was such a moving experience. Earlier in the trip we had talked about hymn-tunes; I had mentioned “O Waly, Waly” and the offertory hymn was a Fred Pratt Green text set to this wonderful melody. The feeling of community during communion was so intense, so real.

I could never forget Douglas; the dreamer, truly the choir-master, with the can-do dream that made this adventure come true…fish-lip tones and all…watch him…the teacher, the master musician …we were a “choir,” a group of individuals who made one sound, always to God. Peace to all…

-Barry Cornwall

Some amusing details of language: buffets in England were not advertised (advertized?) as sporting opportunities (“all you can eat”), but as opportunties to dine selectively (“eat what you like”). As we debouched from our return flight on Virgin Airlines, on an airline established by a non-establishment rock music entrepreneur, I noted that its prime seating was described as “upper class.” There will always be an England.

-H. Talmage Day

Each time someone asks "How was your trip?" I explain how wonderful it was that our singing gave the trip focus. Not only did we visit many fabulous, historic, beautiful places, but a whole new world unfolded to me by being a particpant and actor in addition to a visitor and observer. I could almost imagine myself as part of the medieval English drama. But the "ah-ha" singing moment for me was listening to the tape of our singing "Ye Choirs of New Jerusalem" at St. Mary the Virgin in Oxford - was that really the St. Paul's sopranos soaring (in tune)? That church was the perfect space for us, in my opinion. And when I tell people where we sang - people who have travelled all over the world and know England well - and they say, really? And I say, yes, I'm serious, I stand a little taller, a little prouder of what we have done for St. Paul's and ourselves and for Douglas - and am even more grateful to him for having the vision to make this happen.

-Barbara Day

• singing evensong in Bristol Cathedral - learning from Douglas before the service that our plainsong Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis were the most appropriate settings we could sing in that ancient space - being affected by the women's beautiful singing of the Magnificat (I'm glad we didn't have to sing immediately after that!)
• riding in our coach through the idyllic Cotswolds and suddenly spotting a road sign to Down Ampney, Ralph Vaughan Williams birthplace - what had previously only been a hymn tune name now springs to life!
• understanding the privilege of being able to sing in St. Paul's Cathedral, London - many choirs aspire to, but few are chosen - the pinnacle venue of our tour - the acoustics were simply amazing and our performance of Steal Away, with Laura's soaring descant, was deeply affecting
• as part of the pre-service music in St. James's Piccadilly, the organist played Rhosymedre, a Vaughn Williams organ prelude based on a Welsh hymn tune - one of my all time favorite organ pieces - a fitting close to an amazing 10 days
• lastly, how about that cask ale?

-Derek Walker

Images of you all singing "Keep Your Lamps" at St. James's Church, to a spellbound congregation - not just because of the beauty of the sound you created, but because the words had such meaning to that particular community. You ministered to them in a most unforgettable way, I am sure.

-Sissy Walker

The glorious weather!! The gorgeous church at Dover Castle. The superb tour of Canterbury Cathedral and our very knowledgable docent. Two of the best meals I've ever eaten: Lunch and dinner in Canterbury. Hearing the wonderful resonance of our choir's sound at St. Paul's in London. The moving Communion service where we all gathered around the altar at St. James, Picadilly.

-Chris Martin

At first blush my favorite tour moment was singing at St. Paul's in London. I enjoyed the sound under the dome and the appreciative audience and Bill's remark that he was afraid he'd be underdressed in shorts but then noticed that one audience member in the front row was barefoot. Thanks again for organizing an amazing trip.

-Betty Livingston

More responses from our singers and groupies...

So many favorites . . . where to begin? In the spiritual realm, my time at Canterbury left the deepest impression. As a convert to Anglicanism (rather than the "cradle" kind) I don't think I've ever so fully experienced our roots and my connection to them. Musically? The choir performed beautifully -- I almost soared with the sound as it re-sounded up and up and up into the dome of St. Pauls. And I was proud of the skill with which we introduced English listeners to some of our American spirituals. Fun and fellowship? Thanks to all the singers for sharing the fun with us non-singers. Educationally? I enjoyed learning more about English history than I ever have before in a scant 10-day period -- with a big tribute here to Tutor Susie. Oops! Douglas said to keep the paragraph brief . . .

-Marsha & Bernard Murphy

St. Paul’s Cathedral was wonderful with all its history, the large crypt, the view at the top of the dome, the “whispering gallery” and the design of Christopher Wren. The choir room where we changed was inspiring. As we sang in the church, one could hear the echoes of the music. We sounded pretty good! And the lunchtime audience seemed to agree.

-Carmine and Judy Carosella

I loved hearing our magnificent sound in each Cathedral. Singing a floating high A in St. Paul's! Singing o-o-o with Laura at all venues! Feast of Architecture and History. Loved our Tour Guide, Susie Howe, with her British wit and love of history. At Oxford being on the movie set for Harry Potter. English Pubs! The Globe Theatre and As You Like It! Soho on a Saturday Night and The Jersey Boys!Tours of great Cathedrals. Enjoy the highest Choral Experience of my lifetime....to date! I am anticipating the announcement of our next European Tour! Thanks to everyone in our group for 10 Days of Life Moments!

-Charlotte Woods

My favorite part of the trip was singing "My Shepherd Will Supply My Need" at St. Paul's Cathedral in London. We sang it during our largest attended and best-sung performance. That song had special meaning for me this season because my brother and I performed it at our Grandmother's funeral in May. A week later, my brother had to sing it again at a funeral of a student of his who took his own life at age 18. Singing it at the St Paul's Cathedral concert reminded me not only of the family, friends, and congregation we left to go on our pilgrimage, but also of those who have left us all behind. Through music, we stay connected beyond time and space.

-Erin Crowley

Message from a singer...

Only a few years ago I would have never guessed that I would be singing in cathedrals across England with a quality choir. At our Concert at St Paul’s Alexandria one of my friends commented on how well we did singing most of our music a cappella, I had not thought of it that way. Finally, singing at St Paul’s in London and hearing our music reverberate over us under the dome was a highlight.

-Bill Gemmill

Day 10...

In my mind, Sunday is framed with the amazing experiences of the recent days, concluding our tour Sunday morning with the service at St. James's, Piccadilly in London and walking the St. Paul's Choir mascot Frida in our Washington D.C. Capitol Hill neighborhood just before midnight!

Why did we choose St. James's for our final morning? It is commonly believed that Wren's St. James's inspired Benjamin Latrobe in his design of St. Paul's, Alexandria. What the two churches have in common are the galleries and columns, though St. James's influence is romanesque while St. Paul's is neo gothic.

St. James's Church has an amazing history. It was completed by Christopher Wren in the 1680's. Queen Mary gave the organ to the church in 1690 which was originally in her father's Roman Catholic Chapel in Whitehall Palace. As the Queen was Protestant, she had the Catholic chapels dissolved. Hence, the organ was available. John Blow and Henry Purcell were the first to put the newly installed instrument through its paces. Rebuilt over the years, it is currently not functioning, but the original case remains. The church hopes to restore it in the future. Leopold Stokowski, conductor of the Philadelphia Orchestra in the early twentieth century, was at the age of eighteen, appointed as Organist and Choirmaster of the church. In 1940 the church suffered major damage due to bombings. By 1954, restoration was complete. The current organist, Malcolm Hicks, is also organist for the BBC Symphony.

The poet William Blake was baptized in the font (which survived the bombings and still can be scene) in 1757. We sang a number of pieces from our tour repertoire and were sure to include John Tavener's transcendent setting of Blake's The Lamb.

Following the service the choir scattered into the surrounding neighborhood for a quick lunch before heading to Heathrow for home. Those of us sitting at tables to dine looking out onto the street were entertained with a Hare Krishna parade.

Continue to check back on this tour blog as I plan to gather postings from singers and groupies in their own words over the coming days.

Day 9...

The group thoroughly enjoyed their free time in London today, a continuation of yesterday afternoon. Miraculously, no rain had fallen except for overnight during the tour until late this afternoon on our coach ride to Covent Garden for our farewell dinner.

Many moving sentiments were shared among us falling under the category of "what happens in London stays in London."

But, I can tell you that our closing reminded us that we are more than conquerors in all things.
In the words of our patron St. Paul: “No, in all these things we are more than conquerors through him who loved us. For I am sure that neither death nor life, nor angels nor rulers, nor things present nor things to come, nor powers, nor height nor depth, nor anything else in all creation, will be able to separate us from the love of God in Christ Jesus our Lord.” -Romans 8:37-39
Tonight I give thanks for those who made this trip possible from home.

For the vision of St. Paul's Clergy Oran and Judith, to its staff and Vestry; to Neeta Helms and Katie Hickey of Classical Movements for assisting me with the arrangements; to the staff members of: Bristol Cathedral, especially The Reverend Canon Wendy Wilby and Sarah Morris; The University Church of St. Mary the Virgin in Oxford; Canterbury Cathedral, their clergy and staff; Andrew Carwood and Margaret Rates at St. Paul's Cathedral, London and lastly The Reverend Charles Hedley, Elizabeth Lil and Malcolm Hicks at St. James's, Picadilly. I give thanks for our outstanding guide for the week, Suzie Howe, whom we love and will miss once we depart.

I give thanks for all who travelled this path, three years in the making, through to its completion: Tom Avila, Jack Bennett, David Brock, Suzanne Brock, Carmine and Judy Carosella, Barry Cornwall, Erin Crowley, Jeanne Crowley, Tal and Barbara Day, Donna Ervin, Carolyn Fuller, Bill and Francine Gemmill, Marian Holmes, Charlie and Leigh King, Lee Larkin, Bill and Betty Livingston, Chris Martin, Marsha and Bernard Murphy, Laura Rhodes, Jean and Allen Stuhl, Sissy and Derek Walker and Charlotte Woods.

Mostly, I thank our Lord Jesus Christ for the fortitude, strength and inspiration of the Holy Spirit whom we know to be the source of all good things.

In just a few short hours we depart from our hotel for St. James's, Picadilly and our final service before departing for home. Check back for an update on our final day before returning home. Then, check back again for entries by those on tour. Read their personal reflections of the tour. Thank you for traveling with us.

Day 8

Here in London there have been plenty of chances for folks to explore the city and it has been quite fun to randomly bump into those we know in this thriving city of over 7,500,000.

Yesterday morning groups of us were off on the Tube or city busses (yes, the double decker ones) for St. Paul's Cathedral, [http://www.stpauls.co.uk/]designed by Christopher Wren after the previous one was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. It is situated on the sight of the Roman Temple to the Goddess Diana. By UK standards, it is still a new building. 

St. Paul's was saved by St. Paul's Watch, a brigade of citizen volunteers, during the Blitz of December 1940 while all around it was destroyed. 28 bombs fell on the building and were tossed off as were burning cinders. The Cathedral became an icon of hope in those tumultuous times.

Our tour was designed to include St. Paul's at the climactic point as the singer's courage was maximized by all that they had done leading up to this moment. The concert came off beautifully. The choir sang from under the dome. The sound remained cohesive throughout the entire concert. Every musical gesture and expression could be heard in every nook and cranny of the vast cathedral. Our seated audience under the dome and in the nave was just about 200 and there, again, were the visitors wandering through to our accompaniment. (as in Canterbury) This was a very proud moment for us and, we hope, for the folks back home. 

Following the concert, we were again free to explore. TA and I attended A Service of Choral Evensong at Westminster Abby. I enjoy visiting the Abby. On the floor is a plaque (near the war memorial surrounded by poppies if you ever visit) to George Peabody who founded the conservatory that I attended, now a part of Johns Hopkins. It serves as a reminder to me of connections and relationships to those who have come before us, paving the way for us. I never visit London without a visit to the Peabody plaque. It's a good lesson, really. For whom are we paving the way with our lives?

Choral Evensong was sung by a visiting choir. The thought that stayed with me following the service came from one of the Psalms sung in the service, Psalm 120. It is a Psalm that I think of so often in my work leading congregational music.  Those who intentionally make music in the church occasionally find themselves asking the same question: "How could we sing the Lord's song in a foreign land?" This brought on new meaning as we are singing in this foreign land. The Psalms are often like this, some line or thought comes through that we connect to our current situation as if we are being talked to directly.

Last night TA and I joined HTD and BD at a fabulous late night concert by the Artemis Quartet with pianist Jacques Ammon. It was a one hour concert in Wigmore Hall of Tango's by Astor Piazolla arranged for the group. I've been a big fan of Pizaolla for years and it was fun to hear this vibrant, energetic performance. If you're looking for music to add to your library, these are recorded by this ensemble on the EMI label. By the way, EMI is located within a few yards of our hotel.

Day 6 and 7...

Canterbury Cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury. This has been the case since Pope Gregory appointed the first Archbishop, Augustine, to Canterbury in the 590's. Thomas Beckett was selected by Henry II for Archbishop in 1162. Those were days of social turbulence and political upheaval. Beckett, during his life, spoke up for the church even when it was add odds with the King. For this, he was brutally murdered by the King's knights in the Cathedral following an evening service on December 29, 1070. The Christian world was stunned. Beckett became a symbol of resistance to the power of the Monarchy. His shrine at Canterbury was the most popularly visited by pilgrims. Chaucer's Canterbury Tales were inspired by the path the pilgrims took, following, from Southwark Cathedral on the West Bank of the Thames in London to Canterbury. The pilgrimage traced Beckett's steps following his last visit in London to speak at Southwark Cathedral.

Canterbury is the most sacred sight for Anglicans worldwide and it was a humbling privilege to lead a moment of inspiration for so many visitors present.  The choir sang the noontime concert on Wednesday, June 25 on the steps to the East of the Great Choir as hundreds of pilgrims filtered by. I was told later how the music filling the Cathedral added to the spiritual experience of the visit of many from our Verger who happens to be an RSCM examiner in the UK to a woman from Dover who visits regularly to hear the visiting choirs. It was a moment for which to remember and give thanks for a long to come. I hope I never forget what it was like.

The precious experiences at Canterbury have prepared us for our next concert at Christopher Wren's St. Paul's Cathedral, London.  We travelled from Canterbury to London on Thursday morning and enjoyed the sights on the way to our hotel in Kensington, just a few blocks from the palace and gardens of Kensington and Hyde Park. From this convenient location, we will conclude our time in England singing at St. Paul's on Friday afternoon (tomorrow), enjoying Saturday in London and bidding farewell on our final evening as a group in Covent Garden. We will sing a Eucharist on Sunday morning before returning to Washington on Sunday afternoon. 

As an aside, it is important here to note a generalization of the comments by those on the tour. To summarize: by the seventh day more than a few have noted their learnings, surprising to them. First, the ancient history of our trek has come as a surprising realization. The primary realization here is  this, being my latest late night writing, the idea of personal journey that connects us to those who have come and gone before us. The path is well worn but not always obvious. I give thanks for this realization in those that I have led on this particular tour and pray that it will remain life changing. I am reminded of this hymn text found in The Hymnal 1982, #667: 

Sometimes a light surprises

the Christian while he sings;

it is the Lord who rises

with healing in his wings:

when comforts are declining,

he grants the soul again

a season of clear shining,

to cheer it after rain.

In holy contemplation

we sweetly then pursue

the theme of God’s salvation,

and find it ever new;

set free from present sorrow,

we cheerfully can say,

let the unknown tomorrow

bring with it what it may.

It can bring with it nothing

but he will bear us through:

who gives the lilies clothing

will clothe his people, too:

beneath the spreading heavens

no creature but is fed;

and he who feeds the ravens

will give his children bread.

Though vine nor fig tree neither

their wonted fruit should bear,

though all the fields should wither,

nor flocks nor herds be there;

yet, God the same abiding,

his praise shall tune my voice;

for, while in him confiding,

I cannot but rejoice.

Words: William Cowper (1731-1800)

 

Day 5...

Tuesday morning we were on the move again, leaving Oxford for our next overnight in Canterbury. Two scheduled stops broke up the long drive eastward. We first stopped in Rochester to visit the castle [http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.14818] 

and cathedral, England's second oldest dating back to 602. [http://www.rochestercathedral.org/cathedral/index.asp] Charles Dickens resided in the area and based a number of his books in Rochester.

We then spent a fascinating afternoon in Dover. It was a beautiful, clear afternoon and Calais, France was visible across the English Channel. 

A few of the group hiked above the white cliffs.

Those remaining visited Dover Castle [http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.14571] and the secret wartime tunnels [http://www.dover-kent.co.uk/defence/tunnels.htm]. This was an afternoon enjoyed by everyone. Though the tunnels are much older, they were expanded and used by Winston Churchill and the British Military during WWII. The evacuation of Dunkirque, France was managed from there during 9 dramatic days when the allies were forced out of France. The events  were simulated for us as we wondered through the tunnels with our knowledgeable guide from the National Trust. The hospital level was dug out specifically for the purpose of treating the wounded. The lower levels are much older, dating back to the 18th century for the purposed of defending Great Britain from Napoleon's army.

It was a day to relax and enjoy outdoor activity. We arrived in Canterbury in the early evening and spent the remaining day enjoying the company of the group.

Day 4...

The whole of Monday was spent in Oxford. Think "land of Lewis Carroll (Chancellor at Christ Church College) and C.S. Lewis (Professor at Magdalen College (pronounced MAUD-E-LIN), Presidents Carter (Honorary Fellow, Mansfield College) and Clinton (Rhodes Scholar, University College)" and you have the general idea. Oxford University is made up of forty-four colleges. Scenes from Harry Potter films were filmed at Christ Church College. Idyllic Oxford dates back to at least 1096. Sir Walter Raleigh was registered at Oriel College in 1568 or 1572 and later was part of the colonization of Virginia. He was favored by Elizabeth I and beheaded by James I.

The choir's evening concert was sung at the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin. Oliver Cromwell's men used the image of Mary above the entrance for a bit of target practice. The church was originally Roman Catholic which was definitely not a good thing during the dissolution of the monasteries and the damage to St. Mary's was one result.

Thomas Cranmer granted Henry the VIII's divorces and was elevated to Archbishop of Canterbury by the King. He was tried at St. Mary's Church twice. During his lifetime he made several recantations placing him back in favor with the Catholics. He was burned at the stake following the second trial at St. Mary's where he dramatically withdrew his recantations. After a moving oration [http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/cranmerspeech.htm], Cranmer reportedly jumped and leaped happily toward the fire first inserting the hand that signed the recantations until it thoroughly melted, saying, "This hath God offended." He then calmly stepped into the fire without making another sound.

Things were a bit calmer for the choir than for Cranmer. The church houses a 1986 Metzler tracker pipe organ in the 18th century North German style. It was perfectly suited for David's Handel Concerto transcription and my Bach Prelude and Fugue in G Major, BWV 550. We had plenty of time to enjoy rehearsing in the church in the afternoon which attracted a number of visitors who wondered through the church to listen and observe the rehearsal. The choir sang extremely well in the evening concert, proving that they are living into the rhythm of our tour with stamina. Jet lag is now behind everyone.

Last night was also an opportunity for folks in our groups to share their gifts with others. In addition to David's offering and accompaniments, Erin Crowley sang Mendelssohn's O for the Wings of a Dove so beautifully. Jeanne Crowley conducted C.V. Stanford's Ye Choirs of New Jerusalem which allowed me to accompany on the organ, being a great distance away from the choir. The organ is located on the top of the screen separating the nave from the great choir.

Audience members included our own groupies from home and folks from England and a number of EU countries from as far away as Hungary. The husband was, himself, a choral singer who also attended the afternoon's rehearsal.

Lastly, during the morning tour we viewed our first Christopher Wren structure, Tom Tower (1682) at Christ Church University. It houses a clock and bell which tolls 101 times in the evening to signal curfew. 101 was the enrollement of that particular college when the tower was completed. This will not be our final Wren design on the tour, as both St. Paul's Cathedral and St. James's Church, Piccadily were designed by him.

Days 2 - 3...

Saturday morning began with David Brock and I traveling by car to Bristol Cathedral to set up and practice on their famous 1907 J.W. Walker & Sons pipe organ for the Choral Evensong. The organ includes components dating back to 1685 and is one of the finest examples of the English Romantic genre in the country. [http://www.bristol-cathedral.co.uk/index.php?id=32] 

Meanwhile, the choir and groupies enjoyed a beautiful day sightseeing in Bath. [www.cityofbath.co.uk/] Fine examples of Georgian architecture in the Roman spa town made popular in the late 18th and early 19th centuries include Jane Austen and (who knew?) St. Paul's bass Derek Walker in his day job!

The choir arrived in time to vest for a rehearsal before the service. The cathedral staff were most welcoming and supportive of our first service in England as the St. Paul's Choir. The service began with Bach's joyful "9/8" Prelude and Fugue in C Major, BWV 547, played by David. The piece that I composed for the choir two summer's ago for the choir while in Maine, Be Still (and know that I am God) served as the Introit. The choir sang a service setting by Andrew Carter as well as ever in the inspiring acoustic that expanded our cohesive sound. The Canticles were plainsong settings predating Christianity that were appropriate to the history of the site, dating back more than 1000 years as they likely were used throughout the history of Bristol Cathedral. Viadana's Exultate Justi (text inspired by Psalm 33:1-3) danced in the space and was the anthem for the day. The service concluded with the hymn Angel Voices Ever Singing set to the hymn tune Angel Voices (Monk). It is a gorgeous text sung to a most beautiful English tune. I played the John Cook Fanfare utilizing the organ's Tromba stop as the closing Voluntary, a piece that was inspired by instruments such as the Walker and Sons. One fun surprise of the day for me was meeting one of my former voice professors, Bonnie Bradley, who resides here and also taught and remains in contact with two St. Paul's Choir members Jeanne Crowley and Erin Crowley. Bonnie and her husband reside in England and were present for the service.

Today (Sunday) was a leisurely day as we wound our way from Limpley Stokes through the Cotswalds to Witney in Oxfordshire. 

Here we will remain for the next two nights. "Picturesque" best describes the day. We stopped in a number of villages along the way to get a glance at local life. Best remembered was a stop in Tetbury. Prince Charles' residence and farm, Highland, is next to Tetbury. He and the Duchess of Cornwall are frequently seen in the village as he owns a shop there by the same name as his home.

Tomorrow our day will include a visit to Oxford , land of C.S. Lewis [http://www.cslewis.com/about.aspx] [http://www.oxfordcityguide.com/index.html] and a tour of aspects of the university and environs. In the evening we will sing our full length concert at the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin. For folks back home, this will be the nearly identical concert to our Bon Voyage concert last Sunday at St. Paul's.

Following up on our visit to Stonehenge, the BBC is reporting that 35,000 visitors were present there at sunrise this morning to take part in summer's solstice events. 

Ars Choralis member Charlene Nemetz who is traveling with us will be seen in the UK on BBC 1 this evening in her role as an extra in the Spielberg film, Minority Report. Filming was in Washington. It was released in 2002. 

JAG and DT, know you are in our thoughts and prayers for many good days and continual healing.

To our singers that could not travel with us, we send you greetings and much love.

Hi to Mom, Dad and Kevin as you gather for Julie's graduation this weekend. I am thinking about you.